Ingredients

Bronopol — a preservative that can release formaldehyde and form nitrosamines.

Also written Bronopol

A stable form of vitamin C used for brightening. Gentler than pure ascorbic acid.

Also written Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

The peptide sold as Argireline, marketed as a cream alternative to wrinkle-relaxing injections. Evidence is modest; it's gentle and well tolerated.

Also written Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Argireline

A polymer that thickens and stabilises gels and lotions.

A soothing, smoothing ingredient common in Korean skincare. Well tolerated.

Ethanol. Makes products feel light and dry fast, but high up the list in leave-on products it can dry out and irritate skin.

Also written Ethanol, Ethyl Alcohol

Denatured (drinking-unfit) ethanol. Makes products feel light and dry fast, but high up the list in leave-on products it can dry out and irritate skin.

Also written Denatured Alcohol, SD Alcohol, SD Alcohol 40

A soothing ingredient that calms irritation and helps skin feel smoother.

Aloe vera extract. Soothing and hydrating.

Aloe vera. Soothing and hydrating.

Also written Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Aloe Vera

A powdery, violet-like scent ingredient and listed fragrance allergen.

A sulfate cleanser as strong as SLS. Can dry and irritate.

A jasmine-like scent ingredient and listed fragrance allergen.

A floral scent ingredient and listed fragrance allergen.

A sweet, floral scent ingredient and listed fragrance allergen.

Also written Anisyl Alcohol

Water. The base of most creams, lotions and cleansers — usually the first ingredient.

Also written Aqua/Water/Eau, Deionized Water, Eau

Argan oil. A light, nourishing oil for skin and hair.

Also written Argan Oil

Flavour — what gives toothpaste or lip balm its taste. Like fragrance, it's a blend the label doesn't itemise, and it can contain the same allergens.

Also written Flavor, Flavour

Vitamin C. An antioxidant that brightens and supports collagen. Effective but unstable; can sting sensitive skin at high strength.

Also written L-Ascorbic Acid, Vitamin C

A stable vitamin C derivative. Gentler than pure ascorbic acid, with milder brightening effects.

One of centella's (gotu kola's) main soothing compounds, used to calm skin and support its repair. Very well tolerated.

Calms redness, helps acne and fades dark marks. Usually well tolerated; can tingle at first.

Oxybenzone. A UV filter that is absorbed into the body and has possible hormone effects; the EU capped it at 2.2% and some places ban it over coral-reef harm.

Also written Oxybenzone

A preservative and solvent. Also a listed fragrance allergen, though reactions at preservative levels are uncommon.

A balsamic scent ingredient (also used as a solvent). One of the fragrance allergens EU labels must name.

A sweet, balsamic scent ingredient. One of the fragrance allergens EU labels must name.

A faint, sweet scent ingredient that also absorbs a little UV. One of the fragrance allergens EU labels must name.

One of five parabens banned from cosmetics in the EU since 2014 because their safety couldn't be shown.

A gentle, sugar-beet-derived humectant that can also soften the harshness of cleansers.

A synthetic antioxidant listed as a possible carcinogen and under EU review as a possible endocrine disruptor.

Also written Butylated Hydroxyanisole

A synthetic antioxidant used in tiny amounts to keep oils fresh. Often listed next to BHA as a possible hormone disruptor; EU safety scientists reviewed it and allow it with strict limits.

Also written Butylated Hydroxytoluene

A modern, very stable broad-spectrum filter that is barely absorbed into skin.

Also written Bemotrizinol, Tinosorb S

The calming compound in chamomile, often made in a lab. Soothes irritated skin and is very well tolerated.

Also written Alpha-Bisabolol

Avobenzone. The most common UVA filter; needs stabilising partners to stay effective in sunlight.

Also written Avobenzone

A light humectant and solvent that helps other ingredients penetrate and keeps textures smooth. Well tolerated.

A longer-chain paraben. Like propylparaben, the EU has lowered its permitted concentration and bans it in leave-on products for the nappy area of young children, over possible hormone effects.

Lilial. A lily-of-the-valley scent banned in EU cosmetics since 2022 as toxic to reproduction.

Also written Lilial

Shea butter. A rich, soothing emollient for dry skin. Usually well tolerated.

Also written Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Shea Butter, Vitellaria Paradoxa Butter

An antioxidant that can temporarily tighten and de-puff, often used in eye products.

Camellia seed oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

Green tea extract. A soothing antioxidant.

Also written Green Tea Extract

A light, non-greasy oil made from coconut or palm fatty acids and glycerin. Stable and rarely irritating.

Also written Fractionated Coconut Oil, MCT Oil

A humectant that also boosts preservatives. Well tolerated.

A mild sugar-based cleanser that also helps dissolve oils into water. Gentle, though glucosides are an occasional cause of contact allergy.

A polymer that turns water into a clear gel. Very common and well tolerated.

Gotu kola extract. Soothing, and supports the repair of irritated skin.

Also written Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Cica

Beeswax. Thickens and forms a protective film. Well tolerated.

Also written Beeswax

One of the ceramides in skin's own barrier — the lipids that hold skin cells together. Adding them back helps repair a dry or damaged barrier.

Also written Ceramide 6 II

The long ceramide that ties the layers of skin's barrier together. Adding ceramides back helps repair a dry or damaged barrier.

Also written Ceramide 1

Ceramides are the lipids that hold skin cells together. Adding them back helps repair a dry or damaged skin barrier.

Also written Ceramide 3

One of the most plentiful ceramides in skin's own barrier. Adding ceramides back helps repair a dry or damaged barrier.

Also written Ceramide 2

An ethoxylated emulsifier. Fine on intact skin; may sting on damaged skin.

A fatty alcohol — not a drying alcohol. Thickens creams and softens skin.

Also written Cetostearyl Alcohol

A fatty alcohol that thickens and softens. Not drying, unlike ethanol.

Chamomile extract. Soothing, though people allergic to daisies may react to it.

Also written Chamomile Extract, Matricaria Chamomilla Flower Extract

A preservative permitted up to 0.3% in the EU. Occasionally irritating.

A natural skin lipid that works alongside ceramides and fatty acids to repair the barrier.

Sunset yellow, a synthetic orange-yellow dye. Approved for cosmetics; a small number of people are sensitive to azo dyes like it.

Also written Sunset Yellow, Yellow 6

Allura red, a synthetic red dye. Approved for cosmetics; a small number of people are sensitive to azo dyes like it.

Also written Allura Red, Red 40

Tartrazine, a synthetic yellow dye. Approved for cosmetics; a small number of people are sensitive to it.

Also written Tartrazine, Yellow 5

Brilliant blue, a synthetic blue dye used in shampoos, mouthwash and make-up. Approved for cosmetics and rarely a problem on skin.

Also written Blue 1, Brilliant Blue

Red iron oxide — a mineral pigment behind the warm tones of foundations and blushes. Very well tolerated.

Yellow iron oxide — a mineral pigment used to match skin tones in foundations. Very well tolerated.

Black iron oxide — a mineral pigment in mascara, eyeliner and deeper foundation shades. Very well tolerated.

The molecule that makes cinnamon smell like cinnamon — and one of the more common fragrance allergens.

Also written Cinnamaldehyde, Cinnamic Aldehyde

A warm, hyacinth-like scent ingredient and listed fragrance allergen.

A lemony scent molecule and a known fragrance allergen.

Adjusts acidity. At the small amounts used for pH it doesn't exfoliate.

A rose-like scent molecule and a listed fragrance allergen.

Neroli flower oil — an essential oil, there for scent. Essential oils are natural sources of the fragrance allergens labels must name (linalool, limonene, geraniol…) and can irritate sensitive skin.

Bergamot essential oil, the scent of Earl Grey. Ordinary bergamot oil can cause burns and dark patches on skin in sunlight; many brands use a bergapten-free (FCF) grade.

Also written Bergamot Oil

Sweet orange essential oil — nearly all limonene, which becomes a stronger allergen as it oxidises in air.

Also written Orange Oil, Orange Peel Oil, Sweet Orange Oil

Lemon essential oil, rich in limonene. Cold-pressed lemon oil can make skin react to sunlight, so take care in the sun with leave-on products that contain it.

Also written Citrus Medica Limonum Peel Oil, Lemon Oil, Lemon Peel Oil

A foam booster made from coconut fatty acids and diethanolamine. It can carry traces of DEA, and it's listed as possibly carcinogenic (IARC group 2B). Common in shampoos.

Also written Cocamide Diethanolamine, Coconut Oil Diethanolamine Condensate

A mild cleanser usually paired with sulfates to soften them. Rarely, impurities in it cause allergy.

A mild sugar-based cleanser made from coconut. Gentle, though glucosides are an occasional cause of contact allergy.

Coconut oil. A rich emollient that works well on body and hair, but tends to clog pores on the face.

Also written Coconut Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

A sweet, hay-like scent molecule and a listed fragrance allergen.

D6, a volatile silicone like D4 and D5. Fine on skin, but persistent in the environment — the EU restricts it in leave-on and wash-off products from 2026.

Also written D6

A mix of volatile silicones — mostly D5, sometimes D4 and D6. Silky on skin, but all three build up in the environment, and the EU restricts them.

D5, the most common volatile silicone — it gives a silky feel, then evaporates. Fine on skin, but it builds up in the environment, so the EU restricts it in wash-off products (since 2020) and in leave-on products (from 2026).

Also written D5

D4, a volatile silicone. Classed in the EU as possibly harmful to fertility and as persisting in the environment, so it's restricted in wash-off products since 2020 and in leave-on products from 2026.

Also written D4

A mild sugar-based cleanser. Gentle, though glucosides are an occasional cause of contact allergy.

A formaldehyde-releasing preservative and a known cause of contact allergy.

DEA. Adjusts pH and helps foaming, but it can react with other ingredients to form nitrosamines, some of which cause cancer — so EU rules strictly limit it.

Also written DEA

The most common silicone. Makes products glide and forms a breathable protective layer. Not absorbed into skin and rarely irritating.

A soothing compound from liquorice root. Calms redness and irritation; very well tolerated.

A chelator that binds metal ions so the formula stays stable. Poorly biodegradable, but safe on skin.

A mild cleansing agent used in gentle washes.

A preservative that works by slowly releasing formaldehyde, a known sensitizer and carcinogen. Products containing releasers must carry a warning in the EU when formaldehyde levels are high.

A chelator that binds metal ions so the formula stays stable. Poorly biodegradable, but safe on skin.

Octinoxate. A UVB filter under review for possible hormone effects and banned in some reef areas.

Also written Octinoxate, Octyl Methoxycinnamate

Boosts preservatives (often paired with phenoxyethanol) and conditions skin. Occasional allergen.

A short-chain paraben. Like methylparaben, considered safe at permitted levels by EU scientific committees, and among the least allergenic preservatives.

Eucalyptus essential oil. Fresh and cooling, but it can irritate sensitive skin, and like other essential oils it becomes a stronger allergen as it oxidises.

Also written Eucalyptus Oil

The clove-scented molecule; a listed fragrance allergen.

Treemoss, a perfume base like oakmoss, and a strong allergen for the same reasons.

Also written Evernia Furfuracea (Treemoss) Extract, Treemoss Extract

Oakmoss, a classic perfume base. A strong allergen — the EU limits the compounds in it that cause most reactions.

Also written Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract, Oakmoss Extract

A soft floral scent molecule found in many flowers and essential oils. One of the fragrance allergens EU labels must name.

Strawberry seed oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

Sandalwood nut kernel oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

A rosy scent molecule and a well-known fragrance allergen.

One of the best-studied moisturising ingredients. Pulls water into the top layer of skin and supports the skin barrier. Very well tolerated.

Also written Glycerine, Glycerol

A gentle emulsifier made from glycerin and stearic acid.

Glyceryl stearate with a little soap added so it emulsifies on its own — SE stands for self-emulsifying. Gentle.

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that exfoliates the surface for smoother, brighter skin. Can sting and increases sun sensitivity — wear sunscreen.

Liquorice root. Calms redness and helps even skin tone.

Also written Licorice Root Extract, Liquorice Root Extract

Witch hazel. A mild astringent; versions distilled with alcohol can be drying.

Also written Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Witch Hazel

Sunflower oil, rich in linoleic acid, which supports the skin barrier.

Also written Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Sunflower Seed Oil

A jasmine-like scent molecule and a listed fragrance allergen.

Ea buckthom fruit oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

A UVB filter the EU limited to 7.34% in face products after reviewing possible hormone effects.

A water-holding molecule that occurs naturally in skin. It draws water into the surface for plumper-feeling, hydrated skin. Very well tolerated.

Hyaluronic acid cut into smaller pieces. It holds water in the top layers of skin, as its parent does. Very well tolerated.

Also written Hydrolysed Hyaluronic Acid

A strong skin-lightening agent. Banned in over-the-counter cosmetics in the EU and in the US since 2020; can cause irritation and, with long use, a blue-black darkening of skin.

A fresh, lily-like scent ingredient. A well-known allergen, limited to small amounts in the EU.

A plant-cellulose thickener for gels and cleansers.

Lyral. A strong fragrance allergen banned in EU cosmetics since 2021.

Also written HICC, Lyral

A formaldehyde-releasing preservative and a known cause of contact allergy.

The US label name for the red, yellow and black iron oxide pigments (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499) behind most foundations. Very well tolerated.

One of five parabens banned from cosmetics in the EU since 2014 because their safety couldn't be shown.

A spicy, carnation-like scent ingredient and a strong sensitizer, limited to small amounts in the EU.

A light, fast-absorbing ester. Known to clog pores in acne-prone skin.

A thin emollient ester closely related to isopropyl myristate; can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

One of five parabens banned from cosmetics in the EU since 2014 because their safety couldn't be shown.

A gentler AHA that exfoliates and hydrates. At low levels it simply adjusts pH.

Wool wax. An excellent moisturiser, but a known contact allergen for a small number of people.

Also written Adeps Lanae

The alcohol part of wool wax. A good moisturiser, and the part of lanolin most often behind lanolin allergy.

Also written Lanolin Alcohols, Wool Wax Alcohols

A mild sugar-based cleanser. Gentle, though glucosides are an occasional cause of contact allergy.

Lavender essential oil. Natural, but rich in linalool and a known cause of skin reactions.

Also written Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Lavender Oil

A citrus scent molecule. Oxidises in air into compounds that commonly cause contact allergy.

Also written D-Limonene

A floral scent molecule from lavender and many other plants. Becomes a stronger allergen once exposed to air.

A soothing compound purified from centella (gotu kola). Calms irritated skin and supports its repair. Very well tolerated.

A stable, water-soluble form of vitamin C, gentle enough for sensitive skin. Milder brightening than pure vitamin C.

Tea tree essential oil. Some evidence against spots, but a common cause of contact allergy — especially once it's old and oxidised.

Also written Tea Tree Oil

Peppermint oil gives a cooling tingle — which is mild irritation. Not ideal for sensitive skin.

Also written Peppermint Oil

The cooling compound in mint. That fresh tingle is mild irritation — pleasant for most, not ideal for sensitive or broken skin.

A green, violet-leaf scent ingredient and listed fragrance allergen.

Also written Methyl Heptine Carbonate

A strong sensitizer, usually paired with MIT. Allowed only in rinse-off products in the EU.

Also written Kathon CG, MCI, Methylchloroisothiazolinone/Methylisothiazolinone

A preservative behind an epidemic of contact allergy in the 2010s. Banned in leave-on products in the EU; allowed only at low levels in rinse-off.

Also written MI, MIT

A short-chain paraben. Methyl- and ethylparaben are considered safe at permitted levels by EU scientific committees and are among the least allergenic preservatives.

A mineral that adds shimmer. Safe on skin; ethical sourcing is the main concern.

Also written CI 77019

Vitamin B3. Strengthens the skin barrier, evens tone and helps with oiliness and redness. Well tolerated at 2–5%; very high strengths can flush some people.

Also written Nicotinamide, Vitamin B3

A UVB filter that stabilises others. Can cause contact allergy, and it slowly breaks down into benzophenone in the bottle.

Olive oil. Rich and nourishing; heavier on the face and may not suit very oily or reactive skin.

Also written Olive Oil

The key ingredient in most permanent dark hair dyes and a potent allergen — patch test every time, and never use it on skin ("black henna").

Also written PPD

A signalling peptide sold as Matrixyl, meant to support skin's collagen. Evidence is modest, but it's gentle and well tolerated.

Also written Matrixyl

A signalling peptide, often paired with palmitoyl tripeptide-1. Evidence is modest, but peptides are gentle and well tolerated.

A signalling peptide. Evidence is modest, but peptides are gentle and well tolerated.

Provitamin B5. Hydrates, soothes and supports skin repair. A staple of barrier creams.

Also written D-Panthenol, Dexpanthenol, Provitamin B5

Highly refined mineral oil. Cosmetic grades are purified and among the least allergenic moisturisers; it simply seals water in.

Also written Liquid Paraffin, Mineral Oil, Paraffin Oil

A blend of scent chemicals the brand doesn't have to itemise. Fragrance is the most common cause of allergic reactions to cosmetics — skip it if your skin is sensitive.

Also written Fragrance, Perfume

A common emulsifier. PEG compounds are fine on intact skin; some people prefer to skip them on broken skin.

Geranium flower oil — an essential oil, there for scent. Essential oils are natural sources of the fragrance allergens labels must name (linalool, limonene, geraniol…) and can irritate sensitive skin.

A humectant that also helps preserve the formula, so less of a traditional preservative is needed.

One of five parabens banned from cosmetics in the EU since 2014 because their safety couldn't be shown.

Petroleum jelly. The most effective occlusive there is — recommended for very dry, cracked and healing skin. Cosmetic grades are highly refined.

Also written Petroleum Jelly, Vaseline, White Petrolatum

The most common preservative today. Safe at the permitted 1%; rarely irritating.

One of five parabens banned from cosmetics in the EU since 2014 because their safety couldn't be shown.

A plant-derived chelator, found in seeds and grains, that binds metal ions so the formula stays stable.

A plastic used in scrubs and as a thickener. As microbeads it's a microplastic — banned in rinse-off products in many countries.

An emulsifier that helps oils and fragrance dissolve in water. Used in small amounts.

An emulsifier that holds oil and water together in creams and lotions. Used in small amounts.

An emulsifier that helps oils mix into water-based products. Used in small amounts.

Potash lye — used in small amounts to balance acidity or to make soap, and none of it remains free in a finished product.

A food-grade preservative against mould and yeast.

A plant-derived glycol that dissolves other ingredients and adds a little moisture. Rarely irritating.

Also written 1,3-Propanediol

A humectant and solvent used for decades. Fine for most people; a small number with eczema or sensitive skin react to it.

A longer-chain paraben. The EU has lowered its permitted concentration and bans it in leave-on products for the nappy area of young children, over possible hormone effects.

Sweet almond oil. A gentle emollient; people with a nut allergy may prefer to avoid it.

Also written Sweet Almond Oil

Bitter cherry seed oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

Sea whip, an extract of a Caribbean soft coral, used for its soothing effect.

Also written Sea Whip Extract

Pomegranate seed oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

A formaldehyde-releasing preservative, banned in cosmetics in the EU.

A vitamin A derivative with strong evidence for smoothing lines and improving texture. Often irritating at first; use at night with sunscreen by day, and avoid during pregnancy.

A mild storage form of vitamin A. Much gentler — and much weaker — than retinol. Avoid high doses during pregnancy.

Raspberry seed oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

An oil-soluble exfoliant that works inside pores — good for blackheads and acne. Can dry skin; not for people allergic to aspirin.

Also written Beta Hydroxy Acid

Chia seed oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

Sandalwood oil — an essential oil, there for scent. Essential oils are natural sources of the fragrance allergens labels must name (linalool, limonene, geraniol…) and can irritate sensitive skin.

Fine mineral powder that absorbs oil and gives a matte, soft-focus finish.

Jojoba oil — technically a liquid wax, similar to skin's own sebum. Light and rarely clogs pores.

Also written Jojoba Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

A stable, water-soluble form of vitamin C. Gentle; used for brightening and for spot-prone skin.

A food-grade preservative that works in acidic formulas.

Table salt. Thickens shampoos and body washes.

A gentle, creamy cleanser used in syndet bars and mild washes.

The salt form of hyaluronic acid, which occurs naturally in skin. Holds water at the surface for plumper-feeling, hydrated skin. Very well tolerated.

Hyaluronic acid linked into a mesh that holds water and leaves a smooth film on skin. Very well tolerated.

Lye — sounds alarming, but used in tiny amounts to neutralise acids, and none of it remains free in a finished product.

A milder relative of SLS and the backbone of most shampoos and body washes. Can dry very sensitive skin.

Also written SLES, Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate

A strong, foamy cleanser. Effective but stripping — a common cause of irritation and dryness, especially in leave-on or face products. Used as an irritant in skin testing.

Also written SLS

Another component of skin's natural moisturising factor. Hydrates without feeling sticky.

A plant-derived chelator (from phytic acid) that binds metal ions so the formula stays stable. Biodegradable.

A stable, lightweight oil similar to one skin makes itself. Softens without feeling greasy; rarely clogs pores.

A fatty acid found in skin and plant butters. Thickens and stabilises.

A fatty alcohol used to thicken and stabilise creams. Not drying.

An oil-soluble form of vitamin C. Stable and gentle; common in oils and rich creams.

Also written Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

A chelator that binds metal ions so the formula stays stable. Poorly biodegradable, but safe on skin.

A biodegradable chelator used in place of EDTA.

Also written GLDA

Cocoa butter. Rich and protective for dry body skin, but can clog pores on the face.

Also written Cocoa Butter, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter

A mineral UV filter and white pigment. Safe on skin; the EU restricts it in sprays and powders you could inhale.

Also written CI 77891

Vitamin E. An antioxidant that protects skin and keeps oils in the formula from going rancid.

Also written D-Alpha Tocopherol, Mixed Tocopherols, Vitamin E

A stable form of vitamin E. It keeps the formula fresh and conditions skin. Very well tolerated.

Also written Vitamin E Acetate

A hair-dye ingredient used in place of PPD in many permanent dyes. It's a strong allergen too — many people allergic to PPD react to it. Patch test before every colouring.

Also written 2,5-Diaminotoluene, PTD

An antibacterial restricted in the EU and removed from US antibacterial soaps, over hormone effects, antibiotic resistance and environmental harm.

Adjusts pH and helps emulsify. Occasional irritant at high levels.

Also written TEA

A chelator that binds metal ions so the formula stays stable. Poorly biodegradable, but safe on skin.

Part of skin's own natural moisturising factor. At low levels it hydrates; at higher levels (10%+) it softens rough, thick skin.

Blueberry seed oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

Cranberry seed oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

A natural gum made by fermentation. Thickens gels and stabilises emulsions.

A mineral UV filter giving broad UVA and UVB protection. Very gentle — suits sensitive skin and children.

Also written CI 77947

Zinc bound to a skin humectant. Helps regulate oil and keep blemish-causing bacteria in check.