Ingredients

A polymer that thickens and stabilises gels and lotions.

Water. The base of most creams, lotions and cleansers — usually the first ingredient.

Also written Aqua/Water/Eau, Deionized Water, Eau

A preservative and solvent. Also a listed fragrance allergen, though reactions at preservative levels are uncommon.

Avobenzone. The most common UVA filter; needs stabilising partners to stay effective in sunlight.

Also written Avobenzone

A light humectant and solvent that helps other ingredients penetrate and keeps textures smooth. Well tolerated.

Camellia seed oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

A light, non-greasy oil made from coconut or palm fatty acids and glycerin. Stable and rarely irritating.

Also written Fractionated Coconut Oil, MCT Oil

A humectant that also boosts preservatives. Well tolerated.

A mild sugar-based cleanser that also helps dissolve oils into water. Gentle, though glucosides are an occasional cause of contact allergy.

A polymer that turns water into a clear gel. Very common and well tolerated.

Beeswax. Thickens and forms a protective film. Well tolerated.

Also written Beeswax

An ethoxylated emulsifier. Fine on intact skin; may sting on damaged skin.

A fatty alcohol — not a drying alcohol. Thickens creams and softens skin.

Also written Cetostearyl Alcohol

A fatty alcohol that thickens and softens. Not drying, unlike ethanol.

A preservative permitted up to 0.3% in the EU. Occasionally irritating.

Sunset yellow, a synthetic orange-yellow dye. Approved for cosmetics; a small number of people are sensitive to azo dyes like it.

Also written Sunset Yellow, Yellow 6

Allura red, a synthetic red dye. Approved for cosmetics; a small number of people are sensitive to azo dyes like it.

Also written Allura Red, Red 40

Tartrazine, a synthetic yellow dye. Approved for cosmetics; a small number of people are sensitive to it.

Also written Tartrazine, Yellow 5

Brilliant blue, a synthetic blue dye used in shampoos, mouthwash and make-up. Approved for cosmetics and rarely a problem on skin.

Also written Blue 1, Brilliant Blue

Red iron oxide — a mineral pigment behind the warm tones of foundations and blushes. Very well tolerated.

Yellow iron oxide — a mineral pigment used to match skin tones in foundations. Very well tolerated.

Black iron oxide — a mineral pigment in mascara, eyeliner and deeper foundation shades. Very well tolerated.

Adjusts acidity. At the small amounts used for pH it doesn't exfoliate.

A mild cleanser usually paired with sulfates to soften them. Rarely, impurities in it cause allergy.

A mild sugar-based cleanser made from coconut. Gentle, though glucosides are an occasional cause of contact allergy.

A mild sugar-based cleanser. Gentle, though glucosides are an occasional cause of contact allergy.

The most common silicone. Makes products glide and forms a breathable protective layer. Not absorbed into skin and rarely irritating.

A chelator that binds metal ions so the formula stays stable. Poorly biodegradable, but safe on skin.

A mild cleansing agent used in gentle washes.

A chelator that binds metal ions so the formula stays stable. Poorly biodegradable, but safe on skin.

Boosts preservatives (often paired with phenoxyethanol) and conditions skin. Occasional allergen.

A short-chain paraben. Like methylparaben, considered safe at permitted levels by EU scientific committees, and among the least allergenic preservatives.

Strawberry seed oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

Sandalwood nut kernel oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

A gentle emulsifier made from glycerin and stearic acid.

Glyceryl stearate with a little soap added so it emulsifies on its own — SE stands for self-emulsifying. Gentle.

Witch hazel. A mild astringent; versions distilled with alcohol can be drying.

Also written Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Witch Hazel

Ea buckthom fruit oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

A plant-cellulose thickener for gels and cleansers.

The US label name for the red, yellow and black iron oxide pigments (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499) behind most foundations. Very well tolerated.

A mild sugar-based cleanser. Gentle, though glucosides are an occasional cause of contact allergy.

A short-chain paraben. Methyl- and ethylparaben are considered safe at permitted levels by EU scientific committees and are among the least allergenic preservatives.

A mineral that adds shimmer. Safe on skin; ethical sourcing is the main concern.

Also written CI 77019

Olive oil. Rich and nourishing; heavier on the face and may not suit very oily or reactive skin.

Also written Olive Oil

Highly refined mineral oil. Cosmetic grades are purified and among the least allergenic moisturisers; it simply seals water in.

Also written Liquid Paraffin, Mineral Oil, Paraffin Oil

A common emulsifier. PEG compounds are fine on intact skin; some people prefer to skip them on broken skin.

A humectant that also helps preserve the formula, so less of a traditional preservative is needed.

The most common preservative today. Safe at the permitted 1%; rarely irritating.

A plant-derived chelator, found in seeds and grains, that binds metal ions so the formula stays stable.

An emulsifier that helps oils and fragrance dissolve in water. Used in small amounts.

An emulsifier that holds oil and water together in creams and lotions. Used in small amounts.

An emulsifier that helps oils mix into water-based products. Used in small amounts.

Potash lye — used in small amounts to balance acidity or to make soap, and none of it remains free in a finished product.

A food-grade preservative against mould and yeast.

A plant-derived glycol that dissolves other ingredients and adds a little moisture. Rarely irritating.

Also written 1,3-Propanediol

A humectant and solvent used for decades. Fine for most people; a small number with eczema or sensitive skin react to it.

Sweet almond oil. A gentle emollient; people with a nut allergy may prefer to avoid it.

Also written Sweet Almond Oil

Bitter cherry seed oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

Sea whip, an extract of a Caribbean soft coral, used for its soothing effect.

Also written Sea Whip Extract

Pomegranate seed oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

A mild storage form of vitamin A. Much gentler — and much weaker — than retinol. Avoid high doses during pregnancy.

Raspberry seed oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

Chia seed oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

Fine mineral powder that absorbs oil and gives a matte, soft-focus finish.

A food-grade preservative that works in acidic formulas.

Table salt. Thickens shampoos and body washes.

Lye — sounds alarming, but used in tiny amounts to neutralise acids, and none of it remains free in a finished product.

A milder relative of SLS and the backbone of most shampoos and body washes. Can dry very sensitive skin.

Also written SLES, Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate

A plant-derived chelator (from phytic acid) that binds metal ions so the formula stays stable. Biodegradable.

A fatty acid found in skin and plant butters. Thickens and stabilises.

A fatty alcohol used to thicken and stabilise creams. Not drying.

A chelator that binds metal ions so the formula stays stable. Poorly biodegradable, but safe on skin.

A biodegradable chelator used in place of EDTA.

Also written GLDA

A mineral UV filter and white pigment. Safe on skin; the EU restricts it in sprays and powders you could inhale.

Also written CI 77891

Adjusts pH and helps emulsify. Occasional irritant at high levels.

Also written TEA

A chelator that binds metal ions so the formula stays stable. Poorly biodegradable, but safe on skin.

Blueberry seed oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

Cranberry seed oil — a plant oil that softens and smooths skin. Pressed plant oils are usually gentle; richer ones can feel heavy on oily skin.

A natural gum made by fermentation. Thickens gels and stabilises emulsions.