Ingredients

A stable form of vitamin C used for brightening. Gentler than pure ascorbic acid.

Also written Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

The peptide sold as Argireline, marketed as a cream alternative to wrinkle-relaxing injections. Evidence is modest; it's gentle and well tolerated.

Also written Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Argireline

A soothing, smoothing ingredient common in Korean skincare. Well tolerated.

A soothing ingredient that calms irritation and helps skin feel smoother.

Aloe vera extract. Soothing and hydrating.

Aloe vera. Soothing and hydrating.

Also written Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Aloe Vera

Argan oil. A light, nourishing oil for skin and hair.

Also written Argan Oil

Vitamin C. An antioxidant that brightens and supports collagen. Effective but unstable; can sting sensitive skin at high strength.

Also written L-Ascorbic Acid, Vitamin C

A stable vitamin C derivative. Gentler than pure ascorbic acid, with milder brightening effects.

One of centella's (gotu kola's) main soothing compounds, used to calm skin and support its repair. Very well tolerated.

Calms redness, helps acne and fades dark marks. Usually well tolerated; can tingle at first.

A gentle, sugar-beet-derived humectant that can also soften the harshness of cleansers.

A modern, very stable broad-spectrum filter that is barely absorbed into skin.

Also written Bemotrizinol, Tinosorb S

The calming compound in chamomile, often made in a lab. Soothes irritated skin and is very well tolerated.

Also written Alpha-Bisabolol

Shea butter. A rich, soothing emollient for dry skin. Usually well tolerated.

Also written Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Shea Butter, Vitellaria Paradoxa Butter

An antioxidant that can temporarily tighten and de-puff, often used in eye products.

Green tea extract. A soothing antioxidant.

Also written Green Tea Extract

Gotu kola extract. Soothing, and supports the repair of irritated skin.

Also written Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Cica

One of the ceramides in skin's own barrier — the lipids that hold skin cells together. Adding them back helps repair a dry or damaged barrier.

Also written Ceramide 6 II

The long ceramide that ties the layers of skin's barrier together. Adding ceramides back helps repair a dry or damaged barrier.

Also written Ceramide 1

Ceramides are the lipids that hold skin cells together. Adding them back helps repair a dry or damaged skin barrier.

Also written Ceramide 3

One of the most plentiful ceramides in skin's own barrier. Adding ceramides back helps repair a dry or damaged barrier.

Also written Ceramide 2

Chamomile extract. Soothing, though people allergic to daisies may react to it.

Also written Chamomile Extract, Matricaria Chamomilla Flower Extract

A natural skin lipid that works alongside ceramides and fatty acids to repair the barrier.

A soothing compound from liquorice root. Calms redness and irritation; very well tolerated.

One of the best-studied moisturising ingredients. Pulls water into the top layer of skin and supports the skin barrier. Very well tolerated.

Also written Glycerine, Glycerol

Liquorice root. Calms redness and helps even skin tone.

Also written Licorice Root Extract, Liquorice Root Extract

Sunflower oil, rich in linoleic acid, which supports the skin barrier.

Also written Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Sunflower Seed Oil

A water-holding molecule that occurs naturally in skin. It draws water into the surface for plumper-feeling, hydrated skin. Very well tolerated.

Hyaluronic acid cut into smaller pieces. It holds water in the top layers of skin, as its parent does. Very well tolerated.

Also written Hydrolysed Hyaluronic Acid

A gentler AHA that exfoliates and hydrates. At low levels it simply adjusts pH.

A soothing compound purified from centella (gotu kola). Calms irritated skin and supports its repair. Very well tolerated.

A stable, water-soluble form of vitamin C, gentle enough for sensitive skin. Milder brightening than pure vitamin C.

Vitamin B3. Strengthens the skin barrier, evens tone and helps with oiliness and redness. Well tolerated at 2–5%; very high strengths can flush some people.

Also written Nicotinamide, Vitamin B3

A signalling peptide sold as Matrixyl, meant to support skin's collagen. Evidence is modest, but it's gentle and well tolerated.

Also written Matrixyl

A signalling peptide, often paired with palmitoyl tripeptide-1. Evidence is modest, but peptides are gentle and well tolerated.

A signalling peptide. Evidence is modest, but peptides are gentle and well tolerated.

Provitamin B5. Hydrates, soothes and supports skin repair. A staple of barrier creams.

Also written D-Panthenol, Dexpanthenol, Provitamin B5

Petroleum jelly. The most effective occlusive there is — recommended for very dry, cracked and healing skin. Cosmetic grades are highly refined.

Also written Petroleum Jelly, Vaseline, White Petrolatum

An oil-soluble exfoliant that works inside pores — good for blackheads and acne. Can dry skin; not for people allergic to aspirin.

Also written Beta Hydroxy Acid

Jojoba oil — technically a liquid wax, similar to skin's own sebum. Light and rarely clogs pores.

Also written Jojoba Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

A stable, water-soluble form of vitamin C. Gentle; used for brightening and for spot-prone skin.

A gentle, creamy cleanser used in syndet bars and mild washes.

The salt form of hyaluronic acid, which occurs naturally in skin. Holds water at the surface for plumper-feeling, hydrated skin. Very well tolerated.

Hyaluronic acid linked into a mesh that holds water and leaves a smooth film on skin. Very well tolerated.

Another component of skin's natural moisturising factor. Hydrates without feeling sticky.

A stable, lightweight oil similar to one skin makes itself. Softens without feeling greasy; rarely clogs pores.

An oil-soluble form of vitamin C. Stable and gentle; common in oils and rich creams.

Also written Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Vitamin E. An antioxidant that protects skin and keeps oils in the formula from going rancid.

Also written D-Alpha Tocopherol, Mixed Tocopherols, Vitamin E

A stable form of vitamin E. It keeps the formula fresh and conditions skin. Very well tolerated.

Also written Vitamin E Acetate

Part of skin's own natural moisturising factor. At low levels it hydrates; at higher levels (10%+) it softens rough, thick skin.

A mineral UV filter giving broad UVA and UVB protection. Very gentle — suits sensitive skin and children.

Also written CI 77947

Zinc bound to a skin humectant. Helps regulate oil and keep blemish-causing bacteria in check.