Ingredients

A stable form of vitamin C used for brightening. Gentler than pure ascorbic acid.

Also written Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

The peptide sold as Argireline, marketed as a cream alternative to wrinkle-relaxing injections. Evidence is modest; it's gentle and well tolerated.

Also written Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Argireline

A soothing, smoothing ingredient common in Korean skincare. Well tolerated.

A soothing ingredient that calms irritation and helps skin feel smoother.

Vitamin C. An antioxidant that brightens and supports collagen. Effective but unstable; can sting sensitive skin at high strength.

Also written L-Ascorbic Acid, Vitamin C

A stable vitamin C derivative. Gentler than pure ascorbic acid, with milder brightening effects.

One of centella's (gotu kola's) main soothing compounds, used to calm skin and support its repair. Very well tolerated.

Calms redness, helps acne and fades dark marks. Usually well tolerated; can tingle at first.

The calming compound in chamomile, often made in a lab. Soothes irritated skin and is very well tolerated.

Also written Alpha-Bisabolol

An antioxidant that can temporarily tighten and de-puff, often used in eye products.

One of the ceramides in skin's own barrier — the lipids that hold skin cells together. Adding them back helps repair a dry or damaged barrier.

Also written Ceramide 6 II

The long ceramide that ties the layers of skin's barrier together. Adding ceramides back helps repair a dry or damaged barrier.

Also written Ceramide 1

Ceramides are the lipids that hold skin cells together. Adding them back helps repair a dry or damaged skin barrier.

Also written Ceramide 3

One of the most plentiful ceramides in skin's own barrier. Adding ceramides back helps repair a dry or damaged barrier.

Also written Ceramide 2

A soothing compound from liquorice root. Calms redness and irritation; very well tolerated.

A gentler AHA that exfoliates and hydrates. At low levels it simply adjusts pH.

A soothing compound purified from centella (gotu kola). Calms irritated skin and supports its repair. Very well tolerated.

A stable, water-soluble form of vitamin C, gentle enough for sensitive skin. Milder brightening than pure vitamin C.

Vitamin B3. Strengthens the skin barrier, evens tone and helps with oiliness and redness. Well tolerated at 2–5%; very high strengths can flush some people.

Also written Nicotinamide, Vitamin B3

A signalling peptide sold as Matrixyl, meant to support skin's collagen. Evidence is modest, but it's gentle and well tolerated.

Also written Matrixyl

A signalling peptide, often paired with palmitoyl tripeptide-1. Evidence is modest, but peptides are gentle and well tolerated.

A signalling peptide. Evidence is modest, but peptides are gentle and well tolerated.

Provitamin B5. Hydrates, soothes and supports skin repair. A staple of barrier creams.

Also written D-Panthenol, Dexpanthenol, Provitamin B5

An oil-soluble exfoliant that works inside pores — good for blackheads and acne. Can dry skin; not for people allergic to aspirin.

Also written Beta Hydroxy Acid

A stable, water-soluble form of vitamin C. Gentle; used for brightening and for spot-prone skin.

An oil-soluble form of vitamin C. Stable and gentle; common in oils and rich creams.

Also written Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Zinc bound to a skin humectant. Helps regulate oil and keep blemish-causing bacteria in check.